Thank You Mr. Briggs!

Not doing a car! No problem this is the same for a sofa or chair!

How To Restore Auto Leather

by Doug Briggs

Copyright © Doug Briggs, 2001

       This article describes the restoration and re-dyeing of the leather seats in a 1988 BMW 735i. The condition of the leather ranged from outstanding to downright shabby, but there were no holes to patch. Evidently the car was frequently parked with the left side exposed to the sun, leather's worst enemy. The left seats, front and back, were in poor condition while the rest of the leather was in good shape. The driver's seat and armrest showed the wear and tear of 170,000 miles on the car.

       The materials used on this job came from Leatherique Leather Restoration Products Ltd., phone 904-272-0992, email lrpltd@bellsouth.net, Leatherique's web site, www.leatherique.com, is loaded with information.

       The table below is a reference to the steps involved, and it provides the approximate time needed for each step.

Time line

Ordering Dye and Other Materials

       When ordering materials you must send a swatch of the original leather so the color can be matched. The sample needs to be at least a square inch, and such a piece can be found tucked under the back seat cushion. The materials for a complete job using Leatherique products will cost about $170. They consist of:

·        One quart of Rejuvenator Oil

·        One quart of Prestine Clean

·        One quart of Prepping Agent (New SUPER PREPPING AGENT)

·        A small jar of Crack Filler  (comes in 2oz and 4 oz size)

·        One quart of Custom Color

You'll also need:

·        A gallon of medium-drying lacquer thinner

·        Several sheets each of 240 and 400 Wet-or-dry sandpaper

·        A bowl

·        Masking tape

·        A pair of gloves, like Playtex cleaning gloves

·        Some plastic garbage bags for masking

·        Cotton terry hand towels and wash cloths. I prefer cotton wash cloths to so-called shop towels, and buy them by the bundle at Walmart or K-Mart.

·        A couple of tired bath towels

·        2 good-quality plastic spray bottles

·        A plastic wire tie for the parking brake boot on a BMW

·        Two brushes for applying the color, a 2-inch-wide nylon-bristle brush and a half-inch-wide brush for tight spots. The brushes should be of top quality to avoid bristle shedding. Long bristles seem to lay the color down smoother. I found a small round artist's brush useful for applying filler to cracks.

·        A two-inch natural-bristle paint brush for cleaning

·        A wooden paint stirring stick to keep the dye stirred.

       The job will take about thirty man-hours spent over a week (the car is driveable most of the time). When finished, the car should sit undisturbed for two days. This job should not be undertaken in cold weather unless a heated garage is available. Warmth is needed during each step.

       The doors will be open for long periods, so before beginning turn interior lights to "always off." If your car has no such switch remove the fuse for interior lights.

       Color change? It's like painting a car a different color — tedious work to get every solitary nook and cranny repainted. But it is entirely doable. The seats should be removed from the car.

Take out the seats or not?

       It is easier to work on seats on the workbench, and here the color can be sprayed. Overspray precludes spraying inside the car. Removing the seats is not a daunting job. But the car is driveable during the week-long process with seats in. I also wanted to see the results of applying the dye by brush—some do-it-yourselfers don't have spray equipment. Brushing was entirely satisfactory.

       The rear seat cushion must come out. Remove it by pulling the front edge straight up to disengage the clips. The BMW rear center arm rest comes out simply by squeezing the triggers behind it together and pulling the unit straight up. The cushion and arm rest go to the workbench, which was my dining room table.

       Remove the four 10mm nuts that secure the bottom of the seatback. Then prop the bottom out with wood blocks to move the back away from windlace that runs along each side. Remove the lower seat belt attachments and lay the belts out of the way on the rear window shelf. (Make a sketch of how they are attached so you won't be scratching your head days later.)

       Remove the parking brake boot. Push forward on the boot frame and raise the back end, and out it comes. Pull the boot up the brake handle shaft and turn it inside out. It was secured with a plastic wire tie before being turned down. Cut the plastic wire tie and remove the boot.

       Turn the boot right side out. Wrinkles will have taken a set. A balloon inserted into the small opening then inflated will puff the boot out so it can be worked on. Prep the boot as described for the seats. Fill any places that need it – the top surface on this one was worn down to suede.

First, a thorough cleaning of the leather

       Vacuum seats. With a paint brush whisk loose dirt from seams and tucks while vacuuming. This is a good time to vacuum the dash, using the paintbrush to whisk away dust. Pay attention to A/C grills and other places where dust collects.

       Clean seats thoroughly with hot water and detergent. Use the paint brush for cleaning tight spots. Caked-on surface dirt can be scraped off with a smooth, dull table knife. Don't scrape off the surface layer of the leather. You don't want suede. Dry seats with a towel.

       The seats are ready for the next step.

First stage in prepping the leather

(Ed Note: The following is the old way to prep before we developed the Super Prepping Agent. With the Super Prepping you would use 240 grit wet-or-dry sandpaper and  a spray bottle (get it from Lowes or Home Depot). Wear rubber gloves and a dust mask. Cover the bench you are working on or Protect the other parts of the car from the Super Prepping Agent with a cloth. Spray the Super Prepping Agent on a small area and then SAND LIGHTLY with the 240 grit paper. This will remove the color faster and safer than the lacquer thinner and can be done indoors.)

       Scrub the leather with lacquer thinner and medium steel wool or a Scotch pad. The object of this operation is to remove as much of the original color as you can. It will also remove silicone (hopefully). Wear gloves.

       Working outdoors in bright daylight provides the best light. Keep the car doors open and if necessary use a fan positioned outside the car to evacuate fumes. This is a flammable environment. Don't use drop lights inside, or anything else that could cause a spark. Interior lights must not be operative. Don't turn on ignition or listen to the car radio when doing this.

       A spray bottle is handy for applying thinner. Keep a damp towel handy and wipe up sanding goo often.

Second stage in prepping the leather

(Ed Note: The following is the old way to prep before we developed the Super Prepping Agent. 90% of the following will already be done using the above information.)

       Special note: When restoring car seats, the leather in the best condition will need even more diligent prepping than the worn areas because more of the original finish is present and must be taken down. Thoroughly wet-sand, beginning with 240-grit Wetordry and finishing with 400. Where finish is damaged and leather is exposed use only 400. What is thoroughly? You've already removed some of the original finish. During this critical step you're removing much more. Ideally about 75 percent will be taken off. No harm is done by going down to base leather to repair damaged finish, just don't get into the thin, smooth surface grain. Removing most of the original finish will make the leather permeable and permit rejuvenator oil to soak in freely. The permeable surface will also allow new dye to go on smoother and adhere better.

       Complete small sections at a time—a bolster, a seat panel—so you won't neglect anything. It is tempting to skimp on sanding where leather is still in good condition. Don't do it. The only areas I had to re-sand were in the best shape at the outset. Don't try to sand out scratches. They must be filled. You don't want suede.

       Take the pleats out of leather seat pockets by pulling them out tight with one hand while sanding with the other. Don't stuff the pockets because you want them to dry lying naturally, with the pleats nice and flat.

       Sand using plenty of water with detergent added for lubrication. Sanding creates a sticky goo. Without enough water the sandpaper will stick to the leather. Keep a soppy cloth or sponge in your free hand and squeeze water onto the area being sanded. Keep a towel handy to wipe up water and sanding goo as you go. Towels stuffed in the cracks of front seats will soak up water there. Protect carpets. Change sanding water when it is dirty and add detergent each time.

       Change sandpaper when necessary. On tucks and depressions, use long strokes from one end to the other, back and forth. To avoid fraying threads, sand seams sparingly and use only 400 grit.

       Clean the leather with damp towels and allow to dry. That will take a day in warm, dry weather. Parking in the sun helps, but protect leather from direct sun.

Rejuvenating the Leather

(Ed Note: It has been proven that the application of Rejuvinator Oil BEFORE the prepping stage lessens the chance of damage to the older harder leather. If your leather is hard is MUST BE TREATED or the weight of your efforts to prep the surface MAY cause more damage to the leather.)

       Apply Leatherique Rejuvenating Oil liberally and rub it in with your hands. Squirt it onto the leather from the bottle, quickly smearing the heavy liquid before it can run. Where it quickly soaks into worn spots, apply more during this first application.

       This is where you will discover areas that were not sanded enough. If rejuvenator oil is still sitting on the surface in places after the rest has soaked in, the original finish in those spots is still intact and the leather is impermeable. Give those places another good wet sanding. By working rapidly and wiping up water and residue promptly the leather will not become overly wet. Wipe it clean, allow it to dry an hour and re-oil.

       After you are satisfied all the leather has accepted Rejuvenating Oil, if the day is sunny, put the car out with windows closed to raise the inside temperature. After a few hours of this heat treatment rub in another coat of Rejuvenator Oil and let the car sit overnight. If you need to drive it, cover the seat with a towel.

       I was very pleased — surprised, actually — at how well this treatment softens leather.

Clean with Leatherique Prestine Clean

(Ed Note: The following is the old way before we developed the Super Prepping Agent. 90% of the following will already be done using the Super Prepping Agent as described above. The application of Prestine Clean at this stage is not required and using the sequence of Rejuvinator Oil (wait 24 hours) then the Super Prepping Agent you save the 2 day wait. The Recommended Minimum time from the Prepping Agent step to the actual application of Crack Filler or if no Crack Filler is required the Dye Process is 12 hours depending on the weather conditions. The leather must be dry with no wet spots so that the dye will absorb into the leather. Mr. Briggs had a dampness issue that is why he had to wait so long. )

       Devote a spray bottle to Prestine Clean. Remove the label from original container and apply it to the spray bottle. You'll use what is left over for cleaning in the future. Spray liberally on large areas. Scrub surfaces thoroughly with a cloth wet with Prestine Clean. Follow as you go with a damp towel. Your wash cloth will get dirty fast, so rinse it frequently in clean water.

       Prestine Clean is good for vinyl and plastic, too. Since you have the cleaning gear right at hand, this would be a swell time to clean the door panels, gearshift and parking brake handles, steering wheel and dash. A paint brush is handy for getting in tight places.

       Wait two days before proceeding to Prepping the Surface.

Prepping the Surface

       Put Leatherique Prepping Agent in a spray bottle. Wet a cloth, then liberally spray surface being prepped. Scrub with Prepping Agent to remove any remaining silicones, waxes or other contaminants. Wash cloth frequently. Buff prepped leather with a dry towel. You can move right on to the next step.

Repairing Cuts

       A cut through the leather must be repaired with a patch on the underside. Also, any place where it is evident that the leather is seriously weakened should be patched. Slice through with a razor blade to gain access to the underside. Get a thin scrap of leather from Tandy, The Leather Factory, a crafts shop . . . The patch must be larger than the cut, of course. Work the patch into the hole so it can be glued to the underside of the seat leather, fuzzy sides together. Use a glue that the label states is for leather. Do not use contact cement because it adheres instantly when the two surfaces touch, which would prevent an inside patch from being worked into position. Apply the glue through the hole so that both the seat leather and patch are coated. A finger can do a good smear job. Work the patch into place with a knifepoint. Then press the two pieces together and hold them there by some clever means until the glue sets up. After the glue is dry fill the repaired cut with filler as described below.

Fill cracks and scratches with Leatherique Crack Filler

       For large cracks, apply flexible filler inside the crack, then level with a spatula. Using a damp rag, remove filler on the surface outside the crack before it dries. Allow to dry a half hour and block sand, wet, with 400 sandpaper. Fill again and again until the fill is perfectly smooth.

       Even light scratches and roughened areas will take more than one application. Don't expect the dye to fill any surface imperfections, not even faint spiderweb cracks. Fill and sand smooth, fill and sand smooth.

       The driver's arm rest on this car was worn down to suede. This required painting on several coats of filler, each sanded with 400-grit just enough to minimize the amount of filler lying on the surface.

       Allow the filler to dry overnight before sitting on a seat that has been filled. Then, treat it gently. Allow to dry two days before dyeing.

Dyeing the Leather

       Wipe all surfaces with a well-wrung towel to remove dust. Don't get leather wet again.

       Mask surfaces not to be painted. Plastic bags work fine. They can be stuffed in with fingers while holding cushions away from the trim. A Bondo spreader or plastic spatula is useful to shove the plastic between tight-fitting places. Cover the console, carpets and other areas not to be painted.

       When ready to begin painting, empty some the dye into a container of not less than two quarts capacity. It should have a lid for covering when you're not painting. Shake the remainder well and pour it in. Stir well with a wooden paint stirrer, and stir often during use. I found that the dye went on smoother when thinned with about five ounces of water to the quart of dye.

Some things to bear in mind

·        Once dye is brushed on it begins to dry fast. Work quickly. You can't go back over an area after more than a minute or so without leaving brush strokes.

·        Have a bucket of water and a towel handy to wash your hand after using it as a squeegee to unload your brush.

·        When a section has been finished, squeegee the brush between the rim of the container and your free hand. With the "dry" brush pick up excess dye in seams, depressions and wrinkles.

·        When brushing, consider the lie of the surface. On inclined surfaces let gravity help smooth out brush marks by keeping strokes left and right, horizontal. Start at the top and work down.

·        Paint seat cushions and leanbacks individually, letting one dry before tackling the other. In this way you can "handle" the dry one while using a squeegeed brush to remove excess dye from the juncture between them. When one or the other has dried, break them apart where they are stuck together and continue to do so from time to time.

·        How much dye to apply? Consider that the surface will get two coats. Each coat should be moderately light, but not so light that it can't be brushed out wet, and quickly. Second coats can follow in a half hour.

Okay, get started with a practice session

Develop your artistic skill on a place not so readily seen, like the front panel on the back seat cushion. It will be out of the car, where it's easy to work on. Decide after first use whether the dye needs thinning.

       On the seat surface, begin with a bolster at one end. Paint seams first. Load your brush and apply dye in long strokes, then go over it with finishing strokes. You'll get a feel for how much dye it takes for a given size panel. Immediately squeegee out the brush between your hand and the container and pick up excess dye lying in low places. Paint each area in turn. Now that you have some feel for it . . .

Get ready for the interior

1.      Position the car in good light with all doors standing open. Daylight is best.

2.      Turn off the phone or decide not to answer it.

3.      Go to the bathroom, have that last cup of coffee.

4.      Give the leather a last-minute wipe with a damp cloth.

5.      Make a final inspection for proper masking everywhere.

6.      Have a dry towel, a damp cloth and a bucket of water handy for wipe-ups and hand washing.

7.      Stir with a clean stirring stick (and stir often during use). Drop the stirring stick in the water bucket between stirrings to prevent any scale from developing.

Go

       Figure out how the job should be attacked. I painted the arm rests first to give them as much drying time as possible, then the head rests. After a half hour I applied the second coat.

       Work the backrest in the rear, and while that is drying work on the front, then the back again. There will be times you could attend to something else during drying times.

       The arm rests are going to stick to the seat leather in spite of everything. When the surfaces are dry enough to handle, carefully pull the seat leather away from the armrests and move the rests an inch to break them loose from mating surfaces. Do this every so often. Don't move the arm rests more than necessary to break them loose. The dye is still soft and will be abraded by moving the arm rests.

       Break the front seats away from the leanbacks by gentle pressure. Do this from time to time.

What if you mess up a place?

       If there are runs, or if you brushed an area out too dry and it shows, do it over. Decide first precisely what area has to be redone — not less than an entire panel — then tackle it promptly. Using a cloth and lacquer thinner, remove the new dye. Be careful not to encroach into adjacent panels. Inspect filled areas. If any are disturbed they must be re-filled. Small areas of filler can be dry sanded. Vacuum away sanding dust, then go over the area with a damp cloth. Assuming no filler needs wet sanding, and therefore drying overnight, allow an hour for the thinner to fully evaporate before re-coating.

Allow dye to cure

Let the job sit for two days minimum. During that time, unstick the arm rests and the other mating surfaces now and then. With lacquer thinner, remove dye from headrest hardware and other places where it doesn't belong. Use a cloth-covered finger, dipping only the tip in thinner, and take pains. Don't touch the newly-dyed leather with lacquer thinner. There's no rush here; you could do it next week.

With the brake handle down, arrange the excess leather into folds along natural lines fore and aft and you're done.

       Wait a week to reinstall the parking brake boot and the arm rest in the back seat.        Turn the boot inside out and slip the small opening over the brake handle then fasten it back with a wire tie like you found it. Work the boot back down over the brake handle so it's right-side-out and snap the frame back in place.

       Do nothing else to the leather for a few months. Then wipe seats down with a damp towel when you wash the car. If you want a duller finish, after the job has fully cured take the sheen down to where you want it by wet sanding with 1000-grit sandpaper. Twice a year clean the interior with Prestine Clean and apply Rejuvenator Oil to all leather.

Be kind to leather

Be aware of what is on you and in your pockets when getting in and out of your car. Cell phones, pagers, belts with metal decorations, key rings on belts, rivets in jeans pockets, Spiderco knives clipped to back pockets: these are some things that damage leather seats.

       Protect the interior from its most brutal enemy, the sun, as much as possible. With thought and regular care, your interior is good for another ten years.

A parting comment about spot repairs

Color matching has come a long way. It is good. I've seen some relatively new cars with serious isolated damage. Most often the damage is in the driver's outside bolster where things like those mentioned above have raked across it. If the undamaged leather in a seat is otherwise in very good condition, I wouldn't be a bit reluctant to refinish only a bolster or any individual section.